Blog - Obie Travels

Wind Cave National Park

Sep 15, 2021

Any vacation exploring the Black Hills should incorporate a day at Wind Cave National Park. With so much to do in the area, many will bypass the Cave, but there are many reasons to plan some time underground.

Why Visit Wind Cave National Park

Caves and waterfalls are two of my favorite things. I have been to many caves lately and some have been amazing experiences and some have been very over commercialized. Wind Cave National Park was the 8th National Park and the first to protect a cave system. The cave is truly unique from any cave we have seen and the preservation of the area makes it feel like it was just discovered.

Things to Know

Wind Cave NP does not have an admission fee to get into the park, but you must purchase a tickets for a guided tour. Tickets are sold in the visitors center first come, first served. They can only be purchased for same day tours. They do frequently sell out so you need to either come early or be flexible. We had extra time and came late in the day. We lucked out and got the exact tickets we wanted for 30 minutes following. If you have a large group you will need to come early as the tours only include 30 – 40 depending on the tour.

Which Tour to Choose

There are three different tours that vary on the route and the number of steps. The tour schedule varies based on time of year. More information can be found on the NPS.gov website.

Garden of Eden Tour

This tour is the shortest and least number of steps (150). It costs $10 and is a less challenging route for those with mobility issues. It lasts around 1 hour.

Natural Entrance Tour

This tour is slightly more strenuous with 300 steps. There are areas that are slippery and uneven, but an easy tour for active adults. The tour is $12 and lasts about 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Fairgrounds Tour

This tour costs $12 and lasts 1 1/2 hour. It is the most strenuous with 450 steps and there is one stretch with 89 steps at once. It does offer the most views of the cave. This one does sell out quickly and is not offered as often.

Highlights of Wind Cave

Nature at its Best

So many caves have been commercialized and it feels like the natural beauty has been lost. Wind Cave has the same steps and narrow pathways that were placed soon after it was discovered. The tour guides are excellent at giving you the history of discovery and the geologic features of the cave.

Reversing Winds

The beginning of the tour is the natural entrance to the cave and the reason for its discovery. There is a small hole where the cave was discovered where a very cool wind blows out during most days. Interestingly, during its initial discovery there would be times where the hole would reverse and enter the cave. This was due to changes in atmospheric pressure. This small hole was where the first explorers entered the cave to map the cave area

There are three different tours that vary on the route and the number of steps. The tour schedule varies based on time of year. More information can be found on the NPS.gov website.

Boxwork

Wind Cave is one of the only places that has a geologic feature called box work. During the formation of the cave, there was limestone formed by fossils from an underground sea and also calcium carbonate that would form in the cracks of the limestone. Over the years, the limestone would wear away forming honeycomb like calcite formations. This feature is so unique that to find it with such abundance can only be found here in South Dakota. If you are looking for the huge stalactites, they are not in this cave. But if you are looking for a natural wonder, this cave is for you.

History of the Cave

Please take time while in the visitors center to read the history of the cave. While the Bingham brothers were the first to discover the cave, a teen from the area Alvin McDonald was the first to map and journal the internal workings of the caves. The McDonald family sought to commercialize the cave with many resulting lawsuits to follow. We should all be thankful that the lawsuits were settled when the land became protected as a National Park in the early 1900s.

The Mammoth Site

Sep 9, 2021

The Mammoth Site is a hidden gem that most adults may not have on their itinerary. We were nearing the end of our road trip and several changes on our trip left us with some extra time. For every road trip I always have a list of “other adventures” handy in case we have this opportunity. The Mammoth Site is in Hot Springs, South Dakota and just a few miles south of Wind Cave National Park.

Do You Really Want to Go?

So you look for itinerary items for two adult empty nesters. Oh look, dinosaurs. An awesome visit if we had young children. That was our thought too. But hey, what the heck. Better than sitting in the hotel room. So off we go to see the dinosaurs.

Parking and Costs

Parking is ample and no concern. The center is open depending on time of year so check the website before attending. The center opens between 8am to 9am and closes usually between 5pm and 6pm, except during the winter when it may close earlier. The costs is $12 for adults and $10 for seniors (60 and older).

How Long For a Visit?

You can easily enjoy the tour and activities with 1-2 hours, but it is really worth the time invested in the center. Currently the tours are self-guided with an app that you can download upon arrival with the center’s free wifi.

What to Do During Your Visit

After downloading the app we immediately went into the research area. Once you open the door you are indoors and under a roof, but you are in the middle of an archealogical dig. We started our self-guided tour, but very quickly became interested in more than just the mammoths. It is incredible the amount of mammoths that are concentrated in one place. Understanding why here? How the owner of the land understood the significance of the site and sold the land back for research.

We watched as graduate students sat in the dirt and carefully exposed. The bones are actual bones and not fossils or petrified remains. They are very brittle and require great care. We watched and realized the significance of their work. The size of the mammoth bones and tusks were really impressive. After our tour, we passed a research room with several young adults working on bones. Several had opened their windows which we took as an invitation. We began talking to them.

What We Learned?

Graduate students in archeology come to do experiential learning at this site. They showed us their work and how them may or may not know what they were trying to restore. Careful study goes into each fragment no matter how small. They talk about their most exciting discover. Or maybe they tell you a story about what the bone is and where it is located on a mammoth. They talk about how fortunate they feel to be able to work with the site and gain experience with discovery and research.

Why Visit?

Yes, you will be surrounded by tons of kids who are more impressed with the plastic model. But this is an experience that we never realized should be on our bucket list. Make sure you talk to the researchers and ask their stories. It was a highlight of our day and would go back any time we were in the area.

Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse Itinerary

Aug 31, 2021

Spending time in the Black Hills means a trip to Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse Memorial. They are very close together so I am including both in this post. Mount Rushmore is on everyone’s itinerary, but Crazy Horse Memorial is even more spectacular and is an amazing education center.

Mount Rushmore

Overview

Mount Rushmore is almost a rite of passage. You have to see it once. The monument was sculpted in granite between 1927 and 1941 by the artist Gutzon Borglum and his son Lincoln. The faces are over 60 feet high and are quite impressive when viewed up close. There is a lot more to do than just view it. Plan on spending 2-3 hours and really explore the area

The Avenue of Flags

The Avenue of Flags is a great view of the monument and makes for a great picture. Alway nice to walk and view all of the flag channeling our inner Sheldon. The states are listed in alphabetical order and makes for a nice entrance to the monument.

Viewing Area

Walking past the flags you come to a viewing area under the sculptures. We enjoyed the view and then had to ask ourselves “now what”. It appeared to be the end of the road. There are more activities so don’t miss them after you enjoy the viewing area.

Visitor’s Center

I always recommend spending time in the visitor’s center. This one has a short film and other information that will give you the history of the monument and the sculptor. May spend 15-30 minutes here depending on how long you view the exhibits. See the NPS site for more information.

Presidential Trail

Not really a hike, but a short walk on pavement. You are able to get different views of the monument and also enjoy other views of the area as well. Depending on your pace you may spend 30 – 40 minutes on this walk.

Ranger Talks

The ranger gives quick talks in the center where you exit. We were incredibly hot so decided to enjoy the air conditioning. The quick 15 minute talk really gave a great overview of the times when this was built and the logistics behind it. This is a must do.

Evening Sculpture Lighting Ceremony

From end of May to end of September there is a lighting ceremony at 9:00 pm each night. The ceremony is usually very crowded and will last about 45 minutes. Get there early to find a great spot. It is definitely worth the time and weathering the crowds.

Crazy Horse Monument

Very near Mount Rushmore is an equally historic monument celebrating Crazy Horse. He fought the advances of the Americans as they advanced on the Indians taking their land and changing their way of life. He led the fight against Custer that led to his death. Crazy Horse is honored as a hero to the Native American people and this monument is a testament to preserving the Native American culture

History

The carving of the monument began in 1948 by the sculpture, Korczak Ziolkowski. He worked with the local community to plan the memorial that when finished will be the largest carved monument in the world. The monument work continued until his death in 1982. His wife and children have taken over the project and continue to work on this monument today. When will the monument be finished? That is the question asked by many. The latest estimate in 2050.

Visiting Crazy Horse Monument

Fees

The monument is fully funded by the fees collected for visiting the monument. It accepts no funds from either state or federal governments as the monument is meant to be a tribute to the Native American people. It costs $15 per person or $35 per car for 3 or more. The America the Beautiful pass does not work here, but know that your fees are going to supporting this important project. For more information see the official Crazy Horse Memorial site

Parking and Hours

There is plenty of parking even during peak times. The parking is close to the visitors centers and the museums. The monument is further away, but the view at the center is very impressive.

The welcome center and museums are open based on time of year. It is usually open at 8 am and closes at 8pm during the summer months and closes 30 minutes after dark during the other times of year. Check the website for hours before your visit.

Seeing the monument.

You will see the view from our pictures. For those wanting to get closer you can take a $4 bus ride to the monument for up close look under the monument. It is well worth the cost and gives a real sense of the enormity of this sculpture. There are opportunities to pay more for a visit to the work site, but this is not offered often and most will be fully impressed by the trip to the base.

Other Things to Do During Your Visit

The visit to the center is so much more than just viewing the monument. Make sure to allow several hours for your visit. The museum holds one of the largest collections of Native American artifacts. Among the artifacts is education on Native American life, history, and culture. The exhibits are extremely well done and deserve the time to view and learn.

The video did a great job of describing the vision of this site and monument that goes well above the sculpture. The design of the center is to not only venerate Crazy Horse. It even goes beyond the education of the visitors of the Native American story. Additionally, there is an education center that houses the Indian University of North America. The center works to educate Native American students who may attend school here or may attend other universities in the region. There are leadership programs, scholarships and work training programs. Students within the program have a 71% college completion rate due to the support and training provided by the program.

Restaurants

The Laughing Water Restaurant deserves a stop. It is not just an overpriced cafe that coincidentally is located at a historical site. It is a restaurant that is owned by the foundation with revenue going to support the monument and the center. There are amazing views of the sculpture and the restaurant staff are employees or students of the Indian University. You must try either the Native American taco or the Tatanka Stew. Great comfort food and a little bit of culture.

For more information on things to do in the Black Hills, visit my blog Obie Travel Plans

A Day at Devil’s Tower and Surrounding Areas

Aug 13, 2021

AlA Day at Devil’s Tower is usually part of a road trip or a trip through the Black Hills. A drive to Devil’s Tower can incorporate a few great spots including waterfalls and nature hikes. This guide will give you an itinerary for a perfect day in the Devil’s Tower area.

Devil’s Tower

We were coming from Yellowstone so came into the area from the West. This itinerary will map from west to east. We came to the Devil’s Tower from Rt. 110 from the west. As you near the monument, take a moment to take a picture from further away. It is hard to really capture the site while up close, so take a minute to get a nice landscape.

Logistical Information

Admission is $25, but if you have an America The Beautiful Pass you can use that for admission. Parking is ample and not usually a concern. There is a visitor center with rest rooms and information. Although there are no restaurants in the park, there are options near the KOA and campgrounds. You can grab food to go or sit in one of the restaurants. Very casual food. Check the NPS site for more information.

Viewing Devil’s Tower

Depending on time of year, you may see some fabric tied to trees around the area. The area has spiritual significance to the American Indians. The fabric is a physical representation of a prayer. The park ask that you do not disturb these or photograph this displays as it is considered culturally insensitive.

Hiking

Tower Trail – Easy 1.2 miles To best appreciate Devil’s Tower, take the time to walk the tower trail which is an easy 1.2 mile trail. It takes you around the base and gives you great views from all sides. It will take you less than an hour even with stops and photos.

Red Beds Trail – Moderate – 2.8 miles For those that would like additional hiking you can hike the Red Beds which is a moderate hike, but gives you great views not just of the monument, but of the surrounding area.

Circle of Smoke Sculture

South Side Trail – Easy 0.6 miles For those hiking the Red Beds Trail, there is a connecting trail call South Side Trail. This will take you a path that will lead you to the Circle of Sacred Smoke Sculpture. The sculpture represents the first puff of smoke from a peace pipe and shows the importance of Devil’s Tower to over 20 American Indian tribes. You can view Devil’s Tower through the center of the sculpture. You can also drive here if you don’t want the full hike.

Prairie Dog Town

For some reason I am so intrigued with these large communities of prairie dogs. Near the Wind Sculpture is a large prairie dog community that you can spend some time with. Pulling off the road and observing is an entertaining stop. While I feel stupid mentioning it, do not approach the prairie dogs. At one stop on our trip one gentleman was walking into the field to try and get closer. They will bite if frightened. Just observe, watch them bark to each other and get more comfortable coming out to say hello.

Spearfish Canyon Area

After Devil’s Tower, we were heading to the Black Hills area. We decided to take the scenic route and spend time in the Spearfish Canyon area. There are several waterfalls, hikes and a scenic drive that are great for the rest of your Devil’s Tower day. Head east to South Dakota on highway 90 to Spearfish.

Spearfish Canyon Highway

Rt ALT 14 from Spearfish to Cheyenne Crossing is a great scenic byway through Black Hills National Forest. There are a few interesting stops to consider starting from north to south.

Community Cave Trail

For those that like hiking and caves here is a quick trail only 0.6 miles out and back with a very small incline. The caves are not your traditional underground miles of caverns, but a really neat hike to some small caves and rock formations. The forest is really pretty providing some great views.

Bridal Veil Falls

We were there during a dry time so the falls were not overflowing, but even with low flow it was a great stop. You can hike to right under the falls from the side of the road. We enjoyed sitting and watching the kids climb up under the water

Little Spearfish Falls

There is parking right near the falls or you can hike a loop that will give you views of the upper and lower falls.

Roughlock Falls Trail

Another waterfall that you can park near or make a hike out of it. We parked at Roughlock Falls and then walked to the upper observation deck of Little Spearfish Falls. Both were nice views and a pleasant walk on a paved path.

Time Left? Stop in Lead or Deadwood for some South Dakota western fun.

For more adventures, follow my posts

A Day in Cody Wyoming

Aug 11, 2021

Cody, Wyoming is a town proud of its western heritage and has a lot of activities to enjoy. Most people find themselves in Cody, because of its proximity to Yellowstone. Cody, Wyoming sits east of Yellowstone National Park, the first national park and northeast of Shoshone National Forest, the first national forest. Additionally, Cody is the home to Buffalo Bill and all of the history associated with his legacy.

Why Visit Cody

Cody’s location close to Yellowstone makes it a frequent stop for many. Additionally, for those adding in the Black Hills on a trip, it makes for a great stop. Our road trip encompassed Yellowstone, Grand Tetons and the Black Hills. We chose Cody for a stop because of its location and also to intersperse some history and culture in with the National Parks. There are many things to do that could easily fill a weekend, but we chose to spend one day on the way to the Black Hills. For us, one day was plenty. This guide will give you samples of activities to do while staying in Cody.

Things to Do in Cody, Wyoming

Buffalo Bill Center of the West and Museums

The Buffalo Bill Center is a museum on steroids comprising 5 different museums under the same roof. If that is not overwhelming enough, wait until you see the size of the building. It encompasses almost a city block. Fortunately, tickets for the museum will get you entrance for 2 days if you want to see it all. The museums are the Buffalo Bill Museum, the Plains Indian Museum, the Cody Firearms Museum, Draper Natural History Museum, Whitney Western Art Museum. Each museum is great in its own rights, but you may choose to focus on one unless you have a full day or two.

Buffalo Bill Museum

The Buffalo Bill Museum that focuses on the biggest characters in the western culture like Buffalo Bill, Annie Oakley, Sitting Bull and others. You can experience the days of the American West and all of the stories that came during that time

Plains Indian Museum

The Plains Indian museum is an excellent museum that features the Plains Indian culture and traditions. It shows the trials and challenges that the Indians faced during the Old West period. They also have an amazing collection of timeless artifacts and features native American artwork

Cody Firearms Museum

The Cody Firearm Museum may be of interest to firearm enthusiasts and features thousands of artifacts and hundreds of displays

Draper Natural History Museum

Draper Natural History Museum features a look at Yellowstone and its ecosystem. A great stop for kids to learn the story of Yellowstone National Park over the years.

Whitney Western Art Museum

Whitney Wester Art Museum features art work from western artists and displays the time through art and sculpture

Other features of the Buffalo Bill Center

You can participate in a chuckwagon dinner with advance registration. There are also special exhibits and a live raptor experience that is free with admission. These take place in the Braun Garden

Old Trail Town

Old Trail Town is a great stop and much less overwhelming that the Buffalo Bill Center. A collection of historical buildings have been brought to one site to create a town that is a slice of history. You can walk into the buildings and read about what they were used for and where they came from. There are authentic wagons, weapons, and other items interspersed. You can tour this area in 1-2 hours.

Cody Trolly

The Cody Trolly provides a 60 minute tour of Cody and points out many of the interesting sites of Cody. For those staying more than one day, it is a great overview to get you started.

Buffalo Bill Reservoir and Dam

Driving from Yellowstone National Park to Cody you will pass the Buffalo Bill Reservoir. You can stop in the visitor center and learn the history of dam and get up close views. This is a short stop with great views.

Cody Stamped Rodeo

No way to better immerse yourself in the western culture than to go to the Cody Stampede Rodeo. They have nightly rodeos and some special events that can be found on their website.

Grand Teton National Park Itinerary and Plan

Aug 9, 2021

Grand Teton National Park is one of the most visited national parks in the U.S. It is located in northeastern Wyoming and is only 10 miles south of Yellowstone National Park. The draw to the Grand Tetons is the amazing views of the Teton Mountain Range and the diverse natural landscape.

Our Itinerary

Visiting the Grand Teton National Park can include a week-long visit of hikes and photographic opportunities or it can be a 2 day visit on a larger road trip.

On our trip, we included Grand Tetons on a road trip through Wyoming, Montana, and South Dakota and packed in all the adventures we could in under 2 days. This guide will provide information on the hikes and views that we found most spectacular. If you have more time, you can add in more hikes and spend longer at your stops.

How to Get to Grand Teton National Park

The easiest way to get to Grand Teton National Park is to fly into Jackson, Wyoming. In my research most itineraries started with Jackson Wyoming and went north from there. During 2021, we struggled to find an affordable rental car and needed to start in Bozeman Montana and move south. Our itinerary is based on north to south, but it is easy to reverse to match your destination in Jackson.

Where to Stay When Visiting Grand Teton National Park

I always recommend trying to stay in the National Parks where possible. National Park lodging really gives you an immersive experience and also makes revisiting any of your favorite stops easy as you are centrally located. There are many places to choose from by visiting the National Park site here. I think Jenny Lake is the most gorgeous place on earth, so I have a goal at staying at Jenny Lake Lodge at some point.

LINK to Grand Teton Lodging

Other lodges to consider are Jackson Lake Lodge, Signal Mountain Lodge and Colter Bay Village. We stayed at Headwaters Lodge at Flagg Ranch and Togwotee Mountain Lodge as we booked our trip late. Your best bet is to call the Lodging phone number and let them know what you need. They will answer your questions to make sure the room you are getting fits your needs.

For those that may be booking late or wanting something a little less rustic, there are many choices in Jackson Wyoming. Staying in Jackson also gives you the benefit of many nice restaurants, coffee shops, shopping and bars to enjoy as well. It is only a 15 minute drive from Jackson into Grand Teton National Park.

When to go to Grand Teton National Park

For a place that has snow in the mountains all year, you can imagine that snow could be a factor. Most people will come to the park between June and October. We arrived at the end of May and we had unseasonably warm weather. July and August are great time to visit for weather and hiking, but is also the most crowded times. June and September / October are less crowded and usually temperate enough for hiking and exploring. If you go after September you may be able to see the aspens turning their classic yellow and also see more wildlife before winter. While many flock to Jacson Hole for skiing, you will find most of the roads in Grand Teton closed.

Things to Know Before you Go

National Park Pass – To get into the park you need a national park pass which costs $35 for one car entrance for 7 days. If you are someone who frequents national parks, you will want to consider the America The Beautiful Pass which is $80 and gives you admissions to many national park facilities for 1 year. If you are super lucky like me, you travel with some who can get the Senior Lifetime America the Beautiful Pass which is $80 for those over 62.

What to Pack – Always pack layers as the weather can change frequently. Even within a day you will need to shed a layer or two frequently depending on your altitude. Also, we learned the hard way the need for bug spray. And finally, it is important to have downloaded or printed maps. Cellular coverage is of course not great in the park and when venturing out of the park or around the park, you will need help with navigation.

What to Do when Visiting Grand Teton National Park

This is my itinerary starting north and moving south. Please adjust for your location.

Jackson Overlook – We were very excited seeing the beautiful snow-capped mountains that we stopped at many of the overlooks. Our favorite at the north of the park was Jackson Overlook. The view over Jackson Lake was incredible.

Colter Bay Visitor Center – We stopped here for breakfast in the Ranch House. There is a visitor center and some nice hiking trails. The Colter Bay Lakeshore Trail is an easy 2.5 mile trail around a peninsula. It is a great hike and it was great for birdwatching. There are a lot of other trails including Hermitage Point that are much longer for those with more time. All hikes are level and easy.

Oxbow Bend – My research told me this was a must-see for the view. We felt that all the views were great and almost didn’t stop here. This is where we got the shot of all shots. The view is the Teton range with the reflection in the water. No matter how long you are at Grand Teton National Park, this must be on your itinerary. We were here pretty early and it was not crowded.

Jackson Lake Dam – This is not a big one on anyone’s itinerary, but we were excited and stopping everywhere. I have seen dams before, but this was a nice walk. We walked to the river’s edge with the other fisherman. The dam was a backdrop and the multi-colored rocks on the riverside were really a nice stop.

Chapel of the Sacred Heart – We stopped here and the chapel was a nice stop. After viewing the chapel, we followed a few others and walked down a somewhat steep trail to the water.

Signal Mountain Road – Another stop we almost skipped. The narrow winding road takes you to the top of Signal Mountain Road with great views looking down into the valley. There are two stops with great views. While standing there, a bald eagle flew right underneath us. It was truly an amazing experience we will never forget. This stop takes about 30 minutes to an hour, but well worth the time for the views alone.

Jenny Lake Visitor Center and Junction

This is a stop that you will need to budget at least half a day. Please read by post on Hiking Jenny Lake. This was the highlight of the time in the Grand Tetons. The plan for this area is to hike to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point. There are several ways to get there. The easiest is taking the Jenny Boat shuttle across the lake. A scenic boat ride and leaves you 0.5 miles from Hidden Falls and 1.0 miles from Inspiration Point. Others will want to hike Jenny Lake Trail which will add 2.0 miles. Many will hike one way and take the shuttle the other.

No matter how you chose, the hike from the boat dock up to Inspiration Point is one that can’t be missed. We were there in late May and it was unseasonably warm. There was a large amount of snowmelt that caused the waterfalls and rivers to be quite active. Part of the hike walks beside the Cascade Creek. The water flow was incredibly strong and we enjoyed just sitting and enjoying the white water rapids.

Hidden Falls – There is a junction where left is Hidden Falls and straight ahead. Hidden Falls was a tremendous waterfall that you could get up close to. There are some nice rocks where you can sit and rest before the climb to Inspiration Point.

Inspiration Point – The climb to Inspiration Point is moderately steep and there are a few places where you will need to hold close to the rocks to scale up. But we are not avid hikers and even a little afraid of heights and we felt it was not challenging. The view from the top is well worth the climb.

Taggart Lake Trailhead – Another good choice for hiking. There are many trails and by using AllTrails you can find one that is perfect for you time frame.

Mormon Row – By taking Antelope Flats Rd., there are some historic buildings call Mormon Row. The main attraction here is a picture of the barn with the mountains behind it. We made a quick stop for this, but you could spend more time here to explore and look around.

Schwabacher Road – This is another quick stop that has great views and a wall near a small creek. It only takes a few minutes and is worth the time.

Jenny Lake Guide – Grand Tetons

Aug 6, 2021

The Grand Tetons have some of the most spectacular views of lakes and mountains of all the national parks. The views around Jenny Lake are unforgettable. Before our visit my research kept coming back to Jenny Lake. Not the largest lake, but definitely the most written about lake. It wasn’t until I got there that I understood the reason. Providing a centerpiece of the park, Jenny Lake sits at the base of the Teton mountain range and the Cascade Canyon. Plan on spending at least half a day exploring this area.

Jenny Lake Area

The Jenny Lake area is a very busy location and has a visitor center with rangers and maps. There are also restrooms, dining and a lodge. The lodge is one of the first park hotels to fill up and it is worth the advance planning to try and get into this hotel. The lodge has rustic cabin style rooms with the best views and the most central location. The dining room has good food and it gears towards locally sourced food. Breakfast and lunch has fresh choices and always a good stop. During 2021, the Lodge is not serving lunch. Dinner at the Dining Room is an event consisting of a 5 course menu.

Parking

Challenges with parking come with the best features of the park. There is a very large lot that fills quickly. Most people arrive from sunrise to around 9am for their hike. Most people will spend easily 3-4 hours in this area. So plan to either arrive early morning or early afternoon. After lunch there is a steadier exit of people that does not occur from 10:30 – 12:00.

We could not find a space and turned a disappointment into an adventure. We went to the nearby String Lake Trailhead to spend some time in hopes parking would open up. We had planned on taking the boat shuttle, but decided to hike to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point from String Lake Trail instead

Jenny Lake Boat Shuttle

The Jenny Lake Boat shuttle leaves from the visitor center and takes you to the west side of the lake. The boats leave every 15 to 20 minutes and run all day. Hours vary based on season so check the website. The shuttle is a great boat ride and cuts 2 miles hike each way off of your trip to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point. The tickets cost $18 round trip and $10 one way.

Many will hike over and take the shuttle back. If you change your mind once over there, you can take the shuttle back and pay once you reach the East dock. Our plan was to take the shuttle both ways because the hike to Inspiration Point was a climb and we wanted to conserve energy. But…Parking.

Hiking Jenny Lake

The entire Jenny Lake loop trail is 7.6 miles. It is a beautiful hike, but the real attractions are Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point which are 0.5 miles and 1.0 miles from the boat dock. Since we were at String Lake Hiking Trail, we realized we could get to the boat dock in a little over 2 miles of an easy hike. We may be old and novice hikers, but we can definitely handle that. SOOOO glad we did. Walked around the lake and saw overlooks and views of the lake. At one point we saw movement and an elk was walking nearby. We arrived at the boat dock with no problem.

Hidden Falls

The hike from the boat dock to Hidden Falls is 0.5 miles and has a moderate incline. We were there late spring and there was a huge snow melt going on. While walking up to Hidden Falls, we walked by Cascade Creek. To be honest I kept thinking that was the waterfall as it was so booming loud. We may have just been lucky with the snow melt but the power of the cascades was great. We sat to enjoy the sounds of the water (rest!) before continuing. You hit a junction where Hidden Falls is to the left and Inspiration Point is straight ahead. When you walk a year 25 yard, you are met with one of the best waterfalls. Again, maybe we were lucky with the snowmelt, but it was very powerful and you could stand close enough to fill the mist of the falls.

Inspiration Point

This part of the hike is a little steeper, but short. It is absolutely worth the trip up. There are a few points where you are walking near a ledge, but it does not feel dangerous at any point. My husband is not a fan of heights and he was comfortable. At the top there are amazing views of the lake and the mountains. After the long hike we decided to stay for a while to enjoy. This hike was the best thing we did in the park.

A Guide to Congaree National Park

Aug 4, 2021

An Overview of the Congaree National Park

So if you are a huge fan of National Parks, this park is very different. It looks and feels like a short walk in a muggy swamp. Now the NPS site will tell you it is not a swamp, because it has water flow, but ultimately it is a swamp…a unique and beautiful swamp. The National Park consists of over 20,000 acres of flooded forest. So why is Congaree designated as a National Park? It was first designated a national park in 2003 after a 40 year campaign for its recognition. The park serves to preserve the largest tract of old growth bottomland hardwood forest in existence in the U.S. The trees create a canopy that is one of the highest for a deciduous forest.

Why Should You Visit Congaree National Park?

An itinerary for Congaree can be between a few hours and a long day. It depends on how you want to explore. Because Congaree is close to Columbia, SC and on the way for many to get to Charleston, SC, it makes a perfect stop on a South Carolina road trip itinerary. The boardwalk provides some great views that are not seen elsewhere in the country. There is also historical significance of the area as a hiding place for runaway slaves and the setting for the Civil War.

Know Before You Go

There is no fee to get into the park. There is also ample free parking. The park is open 24 hours a day, all days. The Harry Hampton visitor center is open from 9am to 5pm 7 days a week except most major government holidays.

At the visitor center there is a mosquito meter. If the park has a mosquito meter, you may want to take bug spray seriously. The park is most interesting when water levels are higher which is also the time for more insects. Grab some bug spray and get started. South Carolina is very hot and humid and in the summer can be very uncomfortable. Many chose to visit in the Spring and Fall, but even mild winter days can be okay from a temperature standpoint. There are times where the park can be flooded (it is a floodplain forest) and during those times is not a good visit. Check the NPS Website for details on conditions.

How to Spend a Few Hours

If you are looking to get a sense of the park and check off Congaree National Park from your to do list, then a stop of a few hours will do it. There are many ways to explore Congaree, but the boardwalk hike is a good first place to start. You should start off at the Harry Hampton Visitor Center. You may want to check the website before going to see if the museum is open because of COVID-19. If it is open, it is a great historical and ecological lesson. We went to the rangers stand to ask a few questions and get one of the pamphlets that points out some of the highlights along the board walk

Boardwalk Trail

The boardwalk hike is a 2.4 mile loop hike and is an easy walk on level surfaces. There are benches where you can stop and enjoy the scenery. What makes Congaree National Park so special are the trees. There are maples, pines, tupelos and bald cypress trees most growing in the flooded area. The bald cypress tree has growth offshoots that grow near the tree and are called knees. They are really fascinating the way the trees adapt to their environment. While the purpose of the knees is not known, it is thought to help aerate the roots and provide stability for the trees.

Additional Hiking

There are over 25 miles of hiking trails including many primitive trails. I always use AllTrails app to map the trails I want to take. There are some that are very long, but here are a few of the shorter hikes that neighbor the boardwalk

Sims Trail – Easy 3.2 miles

Bluff Trail – Easy 1.8 miles

Weston Lake Loop Trail – Moderate 4.8 miles

There are many others, but some of them are hard to follow. Always research your hike on AllTrails or the NPS trail map before starting.

Ranger Led Canoe Tours

During the spring and fall, there are ranger led canoe tours. They last 3 hours and are 1.25 miles. They are $70 per person and a maximum of 12 people. Canoes, paddles, and life vests are provided. The tours can be cancelled for inclement weather. Other times during the year, there are no canoe tours available. You can bring your own or rent a canoe or kayak in Columbia for those interested in touring the park by water other times of the year.

Synchronous Fireflies

There are a few species of fireflies that during mating times, will produce synchronous glowing. The period of synchronous glowing usually only lasts a week or more and is usually late Spring to early Summer. The park can get very crowded during this time, but because it cannot be predicted well, it is hard to schedule a trip around the fireflies. If you are nearby, you should always check the website in case you have timed your trip perfectly.

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Grand Prismatic Spring and Midway Geyser Basin

Jul 30, 2021

Why spend time at Midway Geyser Basin?

Grand Prismatic Spring is truly a site that is unique and top of my list for Yellowstone. It is one of the most photographic spots in the park. The Midway Geyser Basin contains two of the largest hot springs in the world. In addition to the Grand Prismatic Spring, the Excelsior Geyser is also a sight that needs to be seen to understand the splendor of this hot spring. While a small area in comparison to Upper Geyser Basin, it is worth the time to walk around.

Grand Prismatic Spring

The Grand Prismatic Spring is the third largest hot spring in the world and the largest in the United States. It is set on a spreading mound where the water flow around the perimeter. What makes Grand Prismatic Spring so special is the colors. The center is a deep blue spreading outward to an almost green with the spillover of oranges and yellows. Walking the path around the springs you get the waves of heat as is spills over. BUT…

Fairy Falls Trail

You can’t truly appreciate how beautiful the hot spring is without a hike up Fairy Falls Trail to get a higher view of the colors. The hike is 1.6 miles out and back hike that is slightly uphill, but we considered it easy. This is where you can truly appreciate the marvel of it and get a picture. The trail continues to Fairy Falls and the full trail is 4.8 miles.

Excelsior Geyser

The Excelsior Geyser was once the largest geyser in the world, but it went dormant in the 1880’s. It did erupt in 1985 for two days, but was only 80 feet high compared to 300 feet from the 1800s. Currently the hot spring discharges over 4000 gallons per minute and has numerous boiling vents creating a layer of steam. The steam creates a crazy sensation of heat mixed with normal air temperature that occasionally takes your breath away.

Turquoise Pool

Finally at the same spot is the Turquoise Pool. The water is a beautiful blue color with mineral deposits that add a shimmering nature

Parking

This is one of the places where parking is a big problem. We did come in once and decided to come back at a later time. It is packed all day, but you just need to persevere and have a little bit of luck. We found our best luck later in the day after 3pm. Others recommend very early in the morning. We heard that earlier in the day there is more steam and the overlook is not as fabulous. People do not stay at this site long, so if you circle through a couple of times you should be lucky. The national park website also gives parking alerts that you can check.

Yellowstone Wildlife Viewing

Jul 27, 2021

Tips and Tracks to Great Wildlife Sightings

When planning a trip to Yellowstone, the one thing that is hard to schedule is the wildlife. I am not an expert and this article is not meant to be anything other than a compilation of tips and tricks from rangers and other experts. We had such an amazing experience seeing animals in their natural habitat and hope others have that same experience.

Does Time of Year Matter?

Obviously the less crowded the park, the more the animals feel free to roam. I am not here to convince anyone to visit Yellowstone in the winter. Too cold and most of the roads are closed. Bears are said to be more active in March and April, but even then some of the roads may not be open yet. We travelled purposely in May when the park roads were guaranteed to be open. Our plan was to avoid the crowds, but our timing also enhanced our wildlife sightings. Others we know visiting Yellowstone in the heat of summer and saw very few animals. We were lucky to see a large variety of mammals during our visit.

Does Time of Day Matter?

Absolutely. This is one of the most important factors. The best time to see wildlife is dawn and dusk. Driving right as the sun comes up is your best bet. It is cooler than midday and the animals are on the move. It is also a great time in that the crowds have not overwhelmed the park yet. We drove around at dusk a lot as well and were able to spot some elk, but we did not have as much luck with bears and other predators at that time.

Where in the Park is the Best?

Your best bet is where the crowds aren’t. It is a slim chance of seeing animals next to Old Faithful. Many of the articles will tell you the best place to see animals is Hayden and Lamar Valley. These are large open areas where lots of bison gather. Predators tend to gather where their prey gathers. It is not as simple as driving to these areas. You have to be patient and willing to explore. Our best luck was in the North of the park near Mammoth Hot Springs. In fact we saw elk and pronghorn gathering at the entrance one day. We stayed in Gardiner, MT which is the Northeast entrance. We found many in this area and usually right near the tree line.

Have you Asked the Experts?

The rangers know where the wolf has made a den and where the bears were sighted last. When you see a ranger who is not busy, ask them for advice. They will also tell you any park rules you need to know. When we were there, a wolf den was very near the road and there was a new litter. The rangers told us where it was but made it clear this was a no stopping area to allow the wolves to not have human interaction.

What is a Wildlife Jam?

One thing that you learn very quickly is that the road can be empty and there there is 50-100 cars clumped together forming a traffic jam. That means that wildlife has been sighted. The larger the crowd the more rare the animal. While stopping at these will give you a chance of a sighting, please remember the rangers rule. You can pull off on areas not marked as no parking. Your wheels must be off the road. You must not block traffic or drive slowly while trying to get a picture. You can ask someone who is nearby for what the crowd is gathered for to determine if it is worth parking and fighting the crowd. Part of the problem is the animals that garner the biggest crowds are the fastest movers, mostly the bear and wolf.

What can I do to plan ahead?

Schedule slow-time

The short answer is to not over plan your days. Plan half or 3/4 days doing the highlights then leave plenty of time to get away from the crowds. Some people go on longer hikes, some will pack a picnic and just pull off the road and wait. For us, we gave plenty of opportunity early and late in the day to just drive around the less well-trafficked area and observe. And when I mean drive, I mean drive slowly and by observe I mean have one person focused on the tree lives for anything moving or different.

Practice

Our favorite sighting was driving to Grand Tetons from Yellowstone early in the morning. We were in the wooded area and was truly alone on the road. I was doing my usual scan when I saw movement. I screamed BEAR!!!! My husband came to an abrupt stop (Not recommended if other cars on the road with you) and a bear standing in the woods looked at us and decided to cross the road ahead of us. It was an amazing experience. Practice during hikes and outdoor times. Scan for movements and you will be surprised what you can see.

Talk to others

You can easily identify the people who take wildlife sightings seriously. Ask them for advice and where they have been successful

Don’t focus just on predators

So many want to see a wolf that they don’t marvel at an elk or moose. Enjoy what nature gives you.

For those who are truly focused on wildlife, a tour may be a good option. There are many tours available. Here are a couple of examples that I have heard great things about.

Yellowstone Wild Tours

National Park Lodges Tours

Animal Safety

The park has lots of notices to say 25 yards away from animals and 100 yards away from bears and wolves. There is always a few incidents where someone gets hurt. Often at no fault of their own, but some people are so anxious to get that picture that they are putting themselves at risk. Bison look like slow animals, but they can move fast and can hurt you if you are not respectful of their space. Also, if you are going to do a lot of hiking, you may want to purchase or rent bear deterrent. We were told to always talk and make noise while hiking as the animals will avoid you where possible.

Mammals of Yellowstone

Bison

People get excited when they see their first bison, but trust me. It won’t be your last. There are estimated to be over 4,000 bison in Yellowstone National Park. There are actually two herds that are very distinct. One in the North often in Lamar near Gardiner, Montana and one that makes its home in Hayden valley and surrounding areas.

Pronghorns

We did not research our animals before going and didn’t quite know what they were. They were the size of deers, but were obviously not. If you remember the song Home on the Range, you remember the line “where the deer and the antelope play”. So I started my research on antelope. While they are often called American antelope, they are not a true antelope. Instead they are the only animals in a unique family of animals. They are usually easy to spot, but they are really fun to watch. Take some time to admire the herd.

Elk

These are often very easy to spot in a herd, but often in hot weather and crowded conditions, they can be a little elusive. They are the most abundant large mammal in Yellowstone. They are also popular to photo because of their large racks.

Moose

For the animal spotter they may first appear to be an elk. The population has decrease to an estimate of around 200. We were lucky enough to see 2 of them and both were in wooded areas. Their antlers are very distinct and beautiful to get a picture of.

Bighorn Sheep and Deer

Bighorn Sheep are somewhat elusive in much of the park. They are migratory and usually are located in the northeast and northwest of the park. During the warm times of the year, they typically settle in the higher altitude areas. There are two kinds of deer in Yellowstone, the white-tailed deer and mule deer

Don’t forget to look for the smaller mammals. Beavers, chipmunks and marmots are also fun to discover and watch in their natural habitats.

Read on the Yellowstone National Park site for an overview of all of the mammals in the park.

Another great article that was helpful to me

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